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HIT THE ROAD
Fort Davis to Alpine
A triangle of desert delights awaits travelers with time to detour off I-10.
By Kaye Northcott
You don’t have to trek as far south as Big Bend National Park to be seduced
by the Texas desert high plains. The towns of Fort Davis, Marfa and Alpine offer
a rich diversity of history, science, mystery and, most unlikely, high art.
Exit Interstate Highway 10 at Balmorhea and pick up Texas Highway 17.
Texas Highway 17 delivers visitors from Balmorhea to Fort Davis some 32 miles
south. Marfa is just 21 miles farther south on 17. From Marfa east to Alpine
on U.S. Highway 67/90 is 26 miles. A return to complete the triangle from Alpine
to Fort Davis on Texas Highway 118 is another 26 miles.
FORT DAVIS
Situated because of the remoteness of the area, the McDonald Observatory
perches atop Mount Locke and Mount Fowlkes just northwest of Fort Davis.
The facility attracts astronomers from across the globe. They do most of their
work at night, leaving plenty of opportunities for tours in the daytime. There
are also night star parties at the visitor headquarters. Back in town, the restored
barracks at the Fort Davis National Historic Site are a must-see
for anyone interested in the Texas frontier era, buffalo soldiers and the Civil
War. The camping is great at Davis Mountains State Park. Sunset
draws locals and sightseers alike to take the 5-mile scenic road, which culminates
in a spectacular view of the plains stretching toward Marfa. Those who don’t
wish to camp have delightful options, from the restored Indian Lodge,
built by the Civilian Conservation Corps, at the state park, to Hotel
Limpia on the main drag of Fort Davis. Limpia, meaning “clean”
in Spanish, refers to a nearby creek. The historic hotel has much more to offer
than cleanliness, including a restaurant, gift shop and bookstore.
McDonald Observatory, 1-877-984-7827, http://mcdonaldobservatory.org
Davis Mountains State Park, (432) 426-3224, tpwd.state.tx.us;
Indian Lodge, (432) 426-3254
Fort Davis National Historic Site, (432) 426-3224, nps.gov/foda
Fort Davis Chamber of Commerce, 1-800-524-3015, www.fortdavis.com
MARFA
The two most important modern influences on Marfa have been the filming of
the movie “Giant” in 1955 and the fact that renowned minimalist
artist Donald Judd chose to live and work here. When “Giant” was
in production, actors Elizabeth Taylor, James Dean and Rock Hudson stayed at
the Hotel Paisano in downtown Marfa. The Paisano’s restaurant
is named after James Dean’s character in the film, and there’s a
continuous loop of “Giant” playing in a leathery lounge area. Then
came Judd from New York City, making Marfa into one of the great world art hangouts.
He took warehouses and part of an abandoned fort to establish the Chinati
Foundation. Art aficionados can arrange tours of the facility, which
includes some of the most important collections of modern art in the world.
International visitors are particularly drawn to the yearly Open House, usually
held in October. You will also find renowned poets reading their work at the
Marfa Book Company, art gallery and coffee bar. Lannin Poetry
fellows are awarded accommodations and a stip-end for quiet work time in Marfa.
Then there are the mysterious Marfa lights, most commonly explained as an atmos-pheric
mirage. The scholarly Handbook of Texas says, “They move about, split
apart, melt together, disappear, and reappear.”
Hotel Paisano, 1-866-729-3669, www.hotelpaisano.com
The Chinati Foundation, (432) 729-4362, www.chinati.org
Marfa Book Company, (432) 729-3906, www.marfabookco.com
ALPINE
Thirty minutes east is Alpine, the most populous of our trio of cities, with
more than 6,000 residents. It is home to Sul Ross State University where visitors
should check out the Museum of the Big Bend on the main campus.
The museum has been collecting and exhibiting artifacts of the sprawling Big
Bend region for more than 70 years. The Reata Restaurant, opened
in 1995 and named after the ranch in “Giant,” offers gourmet cowboy
cuisine such as pan-seared tenderloin in port wine sauce and double pork chops
stuffed with roasted pears.
Museum of the Big Bend, (432) 837-8143, www.sulross.edu
Reata Restaurant, (432) 837-9232, www.reata.net
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Kaye Northcott is editor of Texas Co-op Power.
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